All fuelled up and ready to go, even against the snow, we headed back to the arcades and did some shopping... We can't say anymore cos it's a secret... Shhhushhhh.... ;-)
We got some cool bits...
Thursday, 17 March 2011
Camden in Kyoto
After the snow and the temples, we were absolutely frozen and stopped to get some hot chocolates on our way to central Kyoto. The main shopping area in Kyoto is completely covered, and so for a while we were safe from the snow. However, the coolest street of all leads out of the shopping arcade and suddenly it's like you're in Camden - there's even a Paul Smith shop! We headed down this street, not to buy anything but more to watch the crowds of Japanese weaving in and out of the shops, they were loving it!
As we were walking along, we came across an outdoor cafe called Soboro Social Design Cafe - 'The Premium Hotdog'. Who could resist?! It had such a funky feel to it. Jazz in the background and patio heaters. We had to try one... So we were in Kyoto, beers in hand, an outdoor heater and possibly the most delicious hotdogs we've ever had - truly premium!
All fuelled up and ready to go, even against the snow, we headed back to the arcades and did some shopping... We can't say anymore cos it's a secret... Shhhushhhh.... ;-)
We got some cool bits...
All fuelled up and ready to go, even against the snow, we headed back to the arcades and did some shopping... We can't say anymore cos it's a secret... Shhhushhhh.... ;-)
We got some cool bits...
Temples in the Snow
Following the tea ceremony, we spent the afternoon exploring temples in the snow. We had bus passes and routes planned, and Leanne was on a mission.
Our first stop was the Heian Jingu Shrine. This was a short walk from the tea house and the temple stood out with its bright orange exterior. We took some great photos and walked around the main grounds. We had heard great things about its gardens and seen some amazing pictures, but with the snow coming down heavy we decided not to go in. To be honest, the gardens looked amazing in the spring time, with rows of cherry blossom lighting up the paths, but in the snow we saw empty branches and didn't want to spoil the vision...
We jumped on a bus and headed for the Ginkakuji Temple. Known as the silver pavilion, the temple stood out with its Zen gardens and forest walkway. It used to be a villa owned by a Shogun who retired there, to literally chill out! Designed with that in mind, it was extremely tranquil and relaxing. And while the temple was impressive, it was the gardens that really stood out. The path up into the mountains was like a forest walkway, and as we wondered up, you forgot you were in Kyoto. It felt like we were deep in the mountains, but still within view of the Temple and rock gardens below - simply amazing.
The snow didn't let up, but still we headed for the Honen-in Temple. It wad quite secluded in the mountains, just off the philosophers walk. The thing we loved about this temple was that we were literally on our own for our whole visit. We don't know if it was because of the location, or the snow, but we had the temple and all of the grounds to ourselves. It felt so mysterious. With the snow coming down heavy, we explored the grounds in complete isolation. With time to walk around and wonder, we could have been there in ancient times - not a soul in sight!
Then the skies opened up, and the snow just kept falling. We made a run for the bus stop.
We took a bus to the final temple of the morning, Eikan-do. This temple was so different, so ornate. With gold plated statues and vibrantly painted wood work, it really stood out. It also had awesome walkways which twisted into the mountain and led up to a tall Pagoda. We spent a good hour exploring the grounds and as we did, the snow started to ease off.
It was about 2:30 when we took our final bus on the day back to the centre of Kyoto in search of some well earned lunch...
Our first stop was the Heian Jingu Shrine. This was a short walk from the tea house and the temple stood out with its bright orange exterior. We took some great photos and walked around the main grounds. We had heard great things about its gardens and seen some amazing pictures, but with the snow coming down heavy we decided not to go in. To be honest, the gardens looked amazing in the spring time, with rows of cherry blossom lighting up the paths, but in the snow we saw empty branches and didn't want to spoil the vision...
We jumped on a bus and headed for the Ginkakuji Temple. Known as the silver pavilion, the temple stood out with its Zen gardens and forest walkway. It used to be a villa owned by a Shogun who retired there, to literally chill out! Designed with that in mind, it was extremely tranquil and relaxing. And while the temple was impressive, it was the gardens that really stood out. The path up into the mountains was like a forest walkway, and as we wondered up, you forgot you were in Kyoto. It felt like we were deep in the mountains, but still within view of the Temple and rock gardens below - simply amazing.
The snow didn't let up, but still we headed for the Honen-in Temple. It wad quite secluded in the mountains, just off the philosophers walk. The thing we loved about this temple was that we were literally on our own for our whole visit. We don't know if it was because of the location, or the snow, but we had the temple and all of the grounds to ourselves. It felt so mysterious. With the snow coming down heavy, we explored the grounds in complete isolation. With time to walk around and wonder, we could have been there in ancient times - not a soul in sight!
Then the skies opened up, and the snow just kept falling. We made a run for the bus stop.
We took a bus to the final temple of the morning, Eikan-do. This temple was so different, so ornate. With gold plated statues and vibrantly painted wood work, it really stood out. It also had awesome walkways which twisted into the mountain and led up to a tall Pagoda. We spent a good hour exploring the grounds and as we did, the snow started to ease off.
It was about 2:30 when we took our final bus on the day back to the centre of Kyoto in search of some well earned lunch...
Traditional Japanese Tea Ceremony
Leanne was very excited this morning. Possibly the apex of our trip so far. The owners of Mume had booked us in for a Japanese Tea Ceremony on the top floor of the Hosomi Museum, where they have a traditional roof terrace tea house. Just the 2 of us, and a traditional tea host.
The ceremony was booked for 11, and we arrived early as we couldn't face being late for such a traditional event. Not like us hey! When we arrived we were shown around the museum, and then just before 11 called up to the tea house.
We had to take our shoes off to enter, and walked along the terrace to the tea house. We were greeted by the host of the tea ceremony, dressed in a kimono, and who, much to our delight, spoke very good english. The staff at Hotel Mume never let us down!
We walked into the tea house and sat down on the floor. We were given a Japanese sweet to start with which was in tune with the season, and designed to cleanse our palette. Then the host explained the items in the room, and what they were used for. It was very minimalistic, and she explained that it took a lot of influence from Zen minimalism.
There was a large tea pot, placed on hot coals at the centre of the room. You could see small amounts of steam escaping at the side, but again very slow and controlled.
The host herself was extremely quaint and elegant, with the most amazing posture. Everything she did, every way she moved, was effortless. The way she was able to stand on her feet from kneeling on the ground, whilst holding several bowls, was amazing.
To start the ceremony, the host walked out to a room at the side of the main floor, and brought back several bowls, spoons, cloths, a bamboo whisk, and of course, the green tea powder.
She first explained how to make the tea, the measurements and the whole process. After that, she began to wash all of the bowls and spoons, which she said was to cleanse the items. While doing so, she did some amazing things with the cloths, that we can only liken to oragami... folding the cloths with one hand and catching it mid air with the other. So amazing, in a really elegant way!
And then, it was over to us! I would make Leanne a bowl of tea, and then Leanne for me. Even though it was only the 3 of us in the house, the nerves were going as it all felt so formal and traditional.
So, I was up first and over to sit in front of the stove. The host added the green tea and boiling water, and them handed me the bamboo whisk. She told me to whisk back and forth, and literally started laughing when I started. I didn't really have nack, but then it was Leanne who had to drink my gift to her! So, it was on to my feet with the bowl in my right hand. Then over to Leanne, and 2 turns of the bowl with my left hand - to make sure the most beautiful side was facing Leanne. I then presented it to Leanne, who then had to turn it 2 times back to face me.
Leanne then had to say in Japanese "excuse me for going first" and then a bow and a thank you to me! She seemed happy with my tea making skills.
Then it was over to Leanne to return the favour. She was clearly much better with the whisk, and prepared me an amazing cup of tea. A lot smoother than my attempt and it was very refreshing. The tea had a subtle bitterness to it, and It felt like it was very good for me!
The host then completed the ceremony by cleansing everything that was used, and washing the bowls with the boiling water.
The ceremony itself must have lasted about 30 minutes, and was so simple and peaceful. Easily Leanne's favourite part of the trip so far...
The ceremony was booked for 11, and we arrived early as we couldn't face being late for such a traditional event. Not like us hey! When we arrived we were shown around the museum, and then just before 11 called up to the tea house.
We had to take our shoes off to enter, and walked along the terrace to the tea house. We were greeted by the host of the tea ceremony, dressed in a kimono, and who, much to our delight, spoke very good english. The staff at Hotel Mume never let us down!
We walked into the tea house and sat down on the floor. We were given a Japanese sweet to start with which was in tune with the season, and designed to cleanse our palette. Then the host explained the items in the room, and what they were used for. It was very minimalistic, and she explained that it took a lot of influence from Zen minimalism.
There was a large tea pot, placed on hot coals at the centre of the room. You could see small amounts of steam escaping at the side, but again very slow and controlled.
The host herself was extremely quaint and elegant, with the most amazing posture. Everything she did, every way she moved, was effortless. The way she was able to stand on her feet from kneeling on the ground, whilst holding several bowls, was amazing.
To start the ceremony, the host walked out to a room at the side of the main floor, and brought back several bowls, spoons, cloths, a bamboo whisk, and of course, the green tea powder.
She first explained how to make the tea, the measurements and the whole process. After that, she began to wash all of the bowls and spoons, which she said was to cleanse the items. While doing so, she did some amazing things with the cloths, that we can only liken to oragami... folding the cloths with one hand and catching it mid air with the other. So amazing, in a really elegant way!
And then, it was over to us! I would make Leanne a bowl of tea, and then Leanne for me. Even though it was only the 3 of us in the house, the nerves were going as it all felt so formal and traditional.
So, I was up first and over to sit in front of the stove. The host added the green tea and boiling water, and them handed me the bamboo whisk. She told me to whisk back and forth, and literally started laughing when I started. I didn't really have nack, but then it was Leanne who had to drink my gift to her! So, it was on to my feet with the bowl in my right hand. Then over to Leanne, and 2 turns of the bowl with my left hand - to make sure the most beautiful side was facing Leanne. I then presented it to Leanne, who then had to turn it 2 times back to face me.
Leanne then had to say in Japanese "excuse me for going first" and then a bow and a thank you to me! She seemed happy with my tea making skills.
Then it was over to Leanne to return the favour. She was clearly much better with the whisk, and prepared me an amazing cup of tea. A lot smoother than my attempt and it was very refreshing. The tea had a subtle bitterness to it, and It felt like it was very good for me!
The host then completed the ceremony by cleansing everything that was used, and washing the bowls with the boiling water.
The ceremony itself must have lasted about 30 minutes, and was so simple and peaceful. Easily Leanne's favourite part of the trip so far...
Travel Plans
There has been a lot of news about concerns in Tokyo now and the growing issues with the power plants, so wanted to make everyone aware of our travel plans over the next couple of days.
Today we are in Kyoto, which is far south from Tokyo. We will be travelling to Tokyo tomorrow morning and will get to Tokyo Station for 15:00. We then have the rest of the day and night in Tokyo, where we will be staying at the Hotel Ryumeikan close to the station.
The foreign office has said that there are no immediate health concerns related to the radiation in Tokyo.
Our flight back to Heathrow is at 12:00, so we will be leaving for the airport around 8:00. We should be back in the UK for 15:00 Saturday afternoon.
Looking forward to seeing you all, and will keep you posted if things change.
Today we are in Kyoto, which is far south from Tokyo. We will be travelling to Tokyo tomorrow morning and will get to Tokyo Station for 15:00. We then have the rest of the day and night in Tokyo, where we will be staying at the Hotel Ryumeikan close to the station.
The foreign office has said that there are no immediate health concerns related to the radiation in Tokyo.
Our flight back to Heathrow is at 12:00, so we will be leaving for the airport around 8:00. We should be back in the UK for 15:00 Saturday afternoon.
Looking forward to seeing you all, and will keep you posted if things change.
Wednesday, 16 March 2011
Jonetsu Horumon
There was a restaurant we passed last night that was absolutely buzzing and we through we'd have to give it a try tonight. We got there about 8:00 and it was heaving, so we decided to give it a miss. But after walking around for half an hour in the snow and nothing taking our fancy, we headed back and got a table.
So the restaurant was called Jonestu Horumon, any clues yet... no nether for us!
We sat down inside and got a couple of beers. The waitress brought a small BBQ to our table and we chose a few dishes via the pictures in the menu. It all looked like Pork and Beef, so we were happy enough. We also grabbed some salad, edimame and some corn on the cob. It was all really nice, and we had a right good time BBQ'ing the meats and chatting away.
Then, towards the end of the meal we notice a translated menu on the table. We took a look and the first thing that stood out was the word Hormone! And then the meats... Tongue, nose, vocal chord, heart, artery, throat!!! Yikes!
We now don't have a clue what we ordered and BBQ'ed. It was really tasty, but we question what part of the cow we enjoyed!!
So, for future reference, we now think that "Horumon" means "Organs" in Japanese, and not your standard sirloin steak...
So the restaurant was called Jonestu Horumon, any clues yet... no nether for us!
Then, towards the end of the meal we notice a translated menu on the table. We took a look and the first thing that stood out was the word Hormone! And then the meats... Tongue, nose, vocal chord, heart, artery, throat!!! Yikes!
We now don't have a clue what we ordered and BBQ'ed. It was really tasty, but we question what part of the cow we enjoyed!!
So, for future reference, we now think that "Horumon" means "Organs" in Japanese, and not your standard sirloin steak...
Nishiki Food Market and Octopuses on Sticks
We headed to the Nishiki Food Market in the centre of Kyoto for lunch today. We wanted some hot Market food to warm us up from the snow.
The narrow lanes were a buzz of fresh fish stalls, strange and wonderful fruits and vegetables, and hot, street food stands. We started off with some breaded pork and onion, and then sweet potato parcels. We then found a stall with groups of locals gathering, that was selling hot dumplings. They looked great, so we wondered up. The lady serving didn't speak a word of english, so we just pointed at what the last customer had and said "ichi" (which means one). A couple of nods later and we were in business. They were awesome!
We then continued walking around, trying samples of food that the stall owners were giving out. We drew the line however at the Octopuses on sticks. Just like a Candy Apple, but with a full octopus.
The heads stuffed with a Quails egg, but still! I was going to give it a try, what the heck, but Leanne said she wouldn't kiss me if I did...
The narrow lanes were a buzz of fresh fish stalls, strange and wonderful fruits and vegetables, and hot, street food stands. We started off with some breaded pork and onion, and then sweet potato parcels. We then found a stall with groups of locals gathering, that was selling hot dumplings. They looked great, so we wondered up. The lady serving didn't speak a word of english, so we just pointed at what the last customer had and said "ichi" (which means one). A couple of nods later and we were in business. They were awesome!
We then continued walking around, trying samples of food that the stall owners were giving out. We drew the line however at the Octopuses on sticks. Just like a Candy Apple, but with a full octopus.
The heads stuffed with a Quails egg, but still! I was going to give it a try, what the heck, but Leanne said she wouldn't kiss me if I did...
The Golden Pavilion
We got ourselves a bus pass today as we had plenty of sights to see in the north of Kyoto, and our legs have started to ache from our daily treks!! We didn't know how to ask for a bus pass, so one of the staff from the hotel wrote down a request on a bit of paper which we were able to show the bus driver as we got on. Will be keeping that! The funny thing is that is seemed to take about 50 characters to say "Can I have a bus pass"!
We got on the number 59 bus, and our first stop was the Golden Pavilion at the Kinkakuji Temple. As we got off the bus, it started to snow pretty heavily. And we didn't bring a brolly! We coated up, and headed into the Temple grounds. We arrived at a large pond and at the back of it was a tall Golden Pavilion. It looked amazing, but it was so cold that it was difficult to take it all in. We then continued to walk around the gardens and within minutes the clouds had cleared and we had blue skies and gorgeous sunshine. We decided to try and get back into the grounds from the entrance and see the Pavilion in the sunshine. We had tickets, and the front office seemed to assume we were part of a group and just marched us on...
It was well worth it. The Golden Pavilion looked so much more grand in the sun. Not only did the sunshine make the gold glisten, but the reflection on the pond surface was a picture in itself.
With the sun still out we decided to walk to Ryoanji Temple which was about 1km away. Now very grateful for some sunshine, it was an easy walk. We munched on some wasabi peanuts that we bought in the temple grounds. They were awesome and blew out heads off. Well warmed up now!
Ryoanji Temple is home to a world famous Zen rock garden. Sounds like a sight, but we were a bit underwhelmed. Literally 15 rocks in a set of small stones... a bit too minimalistic for our liking, but it certainly pulled a crowd.
We had a cup of the strangest tea there, it was seaweed tea. Leanne loved it, but I wasn't such a fan. Tasted a bit like sea water to me. However, we brought a bag, so can share it when we get home...
We finally headed down to the Ninnaji Temple. This was by far the best of the day. Really quaint and elegant, and lots of artwork and treasures on display. There were also amazing gardens, with small ponds and bridges backing on to a backdrop of the Kyoto mountains. We had to take our shoes off at Ninnaji, and as we walked around we tried to avoid all of the areas in the shade. It was still cold from this mornings snow, and it was only the sun rays that kept our feet warm!
And then just like the climate switch this morning, it started to snow again. It was really coming down heavy as we made our way up to the Pagoda. We took a few chance snaps, and then headed for the bus stop, absolutely freezing!
We are now back on the 59 heading to the Nishiki Food Market for lunch. We've heard good things and worked up quite an appetite this morning!!
We got on the number 59 bus, and our first stop was the Golden Pavilion at the Kinkakuji Temple. As we got off the bus, it started to snow pretty heavily. And we didn't bring a brolly! We coated up, and headed into the Temple grounds. We arrived at a large pond and at the back of it was a tall Golden Pavilion. It looked amazing, but it was so cold that it was difficult to take it all in. We then continued to walk around the gardens and within minutes the clouds had cleared and we had blue skies and gorgeous sunshine. We decided to try and get back into the grounds from the entrance and see the Pavilion in the sunshine. We had tickets, and the front office seemed to assume we were part of a group and just marched us on...
It was well worth it. The Golden Pavilion looked so much more grand in the sun. Not only did the sunshine make the gold glisten, but the reflection on the pond surface was a picture in itself.
With the sun still out we decided to walk to Ryoanji Temple which was about 1km away. Now very grateful for some sunshine, it was an easy walk. We munched on some wasabi peanuts that we bought in the temple grounds. They were awesome and blew out heads off. Well warmed up now!
Ryoanji Temple is home to a world famous Zen rock garden. Sounds like a sight, but we were a bit underwhelmed. Literally 15 rocks in a set of small stones... a bit too minimalistic for our liking, but it certainly pulled a crowd.
We had a cup of the strangest tea there, it was seaweed tea. Leanne loved it, but I wasn't such a fan. Tasted a bit like sea water to me. However, we brought a bag, so can share it when we get home...
We finally headed down to the Ninnaji Temple. This was by far the best of the day. Really quaint and elegant, and lots of artwork and treasures on display. There were also amazing gardens, with small ponds and bridges backing on to a backdrop of the Kyoto mountains. We had to take our shoes off at Ninnaji, and as we walked around we tried to avoid all of the areas in the shade. It was still cold from this mornings snow, and it was only the sun rays that kept our feet warm!
And then just like the climate switch this morning, it started to snow again. It was really coming down heavy as we made our way up to the Pagoda. We took a few chance snaps, and then headed for the bus stop, absolutely freezing!
We are now back on the 59 heading to the Nishiki Food Market for lunch. We've heard good things and worked up quite an appetite this morning!!
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