And in closing...

This is to be the last post on the 'Andy and Leanne in Japan' Blog.

Sat here on the flight back to Heathrow (Somewhere over the Kara Sea, North Russia!!), it's been the first time we've really been able to stop and just reflect back to what has been one heck of an amazing 2 weeks. Everyday was an experience, with it's own set of stories and tales. It truly has been a trip of a lifetime.

We know it wasn't your traditional beach spent honeymoon, but one thing's for sure, Leanne and I feel closer to each other now than we have ever done. We've been through so much here; been happy, excited, overwhelmed, tired and of course damn scared - but never bored, never sad, never down. And we didn't argue once!

Japan is such a cool and mysterious place. We've experienced so much here, and it's definitely brought us closer together.

When we think back to when we first got here, how nervous we were and just what we have gotten used to. The radical changes in language, culture and cuisine... Going out for dinner, and not even being able to make out a meal in the pictures, never mind the text! We've eaten things that we couldn't even identify, but enjoyed every mouthful! We're still not allowed to discuss what we BBQ'd last Thursday night!

And what we've seen and experienced... the waterfall in the snow at Nikko, Mt Fuji on the bullet train, wild snow monkeys, Geisha in the lanes of Kyoto, the staff at Hotel Mume, the japanese tea ceremony, and so many amazing Palaces, Shrines, Temples and Gardens...

Then on the crazy side of things there was Big Echo Karaoke, toy shopping in Akihabara, the @Homecafe and the kinky maids, countless bars, so many rounds of Asahi and Sake!!

It's truly been the perfect blend of the traditional and relaxation, and the most awesome times! Without a doubt the best 2 weeks of our lives and something we will remember forever.

And then not forgetting probably the most memorable experience of the trip, the Earthquake last friday. Something that scared the heck out of us, and made us both realise just how lucky we are to be safe and well. Our hearts really do go out to what we have left behind in Japan and to all of those that have had their lives turned upside down by the earthquake.

Now I'm sure we've missed something in closing, but then that's the whole point of the blog. We'll be able to keep remembering forever.

And thanks to you all for following... it's been fun!

Andy and Leanne x

Airport Limousine Bus

We're so glad we got the early bus this morning. Even at 6:40 it was rammed when we got to the city airport. Must be because the NRX is still out. It was quick enough though and got us here in 90 minutes. Well recommended and exactly the same price as the train.

We're at the airport now, and stood in the Virgin Atlantic queue. Looks like people have been here a while. Our flight doesn't open for check in for another hours and the queues about 40 back! How's that four a buffer. We weren't allowed to check in online for today's flight which seems to have made people a bit cautious. A notice on the website said that all passengers for flights out of Tokyo had to come to the airport to check in.

There are a couple of airlines here, such as Korean Air, that look ram-jammed. Talking queues hundreds deep! Glad were not in that queue.

In need of a coffee...

City Blackout

We headed out to Ueno for dinner tonight. Whilst on the train we noticed several notices about planned blackouts but didn't think too much about it. There were also men standing on the station platform with loud speakers, announcing messages in Japanese to the commuters. We pushed on, adamant that this was our last night in Tokyo and we wanted to make the most of it.

We arrived at Uenu and the place still seemed to have the same old buzz with plenty of the market stalls in the lanes by the south of the station open. The restaurants were also busy, and our favourite BBQ restaurant, where we sat on the tatami mats, was fully booked out! Darn!

We did however find a cracking little Ramen restaurant very close by, and it was remarkably a dish that we hadn't tried so far in Japan. So we wandered in and ordered some Pork Ramen, spicy rice bowl and dumplings! It was like a traditional wagamamas! All topped off with a couple of Asahis. It was awesome!

We left after about an hour and was quite literally shocked by the lack of light in the streets outside. The blackout must have started, as the buzzing Market stalls were closing up, it was a lot darker and there was a serious lack of neon. The first thing we thought of was our train home, so made a dash for the train station.

Luckily, we got a train back without an issue. On the train home we saw a family of 5, many large bags, looking like they were heading out of the city. There such a mixed vibe here!

The area around Tokyo station was so different when we got back. The billboards by the north exit, usually like Leicester Square, were all turned off. This city just isn't the same with it's lights!

Back in Tokyo

We arrived back in Tokyo this afternoon on the bullet train from Kyoto. We can't make head or tail of the news reports. Things seem really calm here and there are still a lot of people about. Even the 3 coffee shops close to our hotel are full and seem to have food and drink for sale. The 7 Eleven is also open with plenty of stock. Maybe it's certain parts of town that are more effected than others.

One major bumer, is the NRX train line which joins Tokyo to the Narita airport is still out since the earthquake. This means we need to grab a shuttle bus to the airport tomorrow morning, which more than doubles our travel time. You realise just how good the trains are here when you don't have them!

Nice early start tomorrow...

But still planning on heading out tonight. Going to head back to our favourite restaurant in the market lanes of Ueno.

Are we going the wrong way!

From the news over the last couple of days it seems like everyone is leaving Tokyo and heading south. As we sit here at Kyoto train station, with tickets to Tokyo, we're really wondering what it's going to be like when we get there.

Stocked up with bottles of water, and a bottle of wine, we're about as prepared as we can be!

Leaving Hotel Mume

It was really quite sad leaving Hotel Mume today. A place we have loved staying at and where we felt so welcome. With everything going on in Japan, it felt like a safe haven, where we could completely relax and enjoy Kyoto. I told Andy that I'd love to come back here for an anniversary!

We know that tipping and gifts are not really the done thing in Japanese culture, but we wanted to say thanks and to let them know just how special our stay was.

So we brought some nice paper from a local craft shop and wrote them a small letter. We gave it to them as we left and they seemed quite overwhelmed...

Shuba Shuba

We had asked the Hotel to suggest a couple of recommendations for our last night in Kyoto, and they had come up with some fantastic suggestions. However, in the end we still wanted to go out and explore. And tongiht, we're so glad we did...

Deep in the heart of Ponto-cho, we discovered a buzzing little restaurant by the name of Shuba Shuba. One word, two syllables: Awe-Some!

We walked into this place and it was full of young Japanese people. All having a laugh with large portions, big bowls of food - it all looked so good. We headed in, but still didn't appreciate just how cool this place was...

We sat down and read the menu, look around, and started to get the vibe. For two hours, we could pick as much beef, pork, chicken, dumplings, vegtables and alcohol as we liked! Yes, as much alcohol as we liked! Awe-Some!

Our table had a hot stove in the centre, with dials to control the heat. We first had to pick two stocks in which to cook our food, and within five minutes we had a hot pot boiling away in front of us.

Then the waitress brought us two raw eggs, and literally cracked up when we didn't know what to do with them. She told us to whisk them in a bowl and to dip our hot meat in them.

She then showed up with the meat and kindly showed us what to do with it! Literally dip it into the boiling stock until cooked, out into the egg yolk, and then ready to eat. It was all cut so thinly, that it was cooked within seconds. This meat literally melted in the mouth. We had the chicken, pork, beef and vegetables, many times over. Such good fun!

But what really made this place tonight were the waitresses and groups of people at the other tables. They enjoyed the fact that we were out of our comfort zone and didn't have a clue what we were doing! Not knowing how to cook the meats, or where to whisk the egg, it was all such a novelty to them. They were so easy going, and their smiles made us laugh at our own mistakes. The groups on the other tables also laughed at our lack of chop stick skills, but it was all so light hearted and fun.

Shuba Shuba is a great restaurant in Kyoto, another new way of dining for us.

The most fun night we've had so far in Japan, and what a way to finish such an awesome day...

Camden in Kyoto

After the snow and the temples, we were absolutely frozen and stopped to get some hot chocolates on our way to central Kyoto. The main shopping area in Kyoto is completely covered, and so for a while we were safe from the snow. However, the coolest street of all leads out of the shopping arcade and suddenly it's like you're in Camden - there's even a Paul Smith shop! We headed down this street, not to buy anything but more to watch the crowds of Japanese weaving in and out of the shops, they were loving it!

As we were walking along, we came across an outdoor cafe called Soboro Social Design Cafe - 'The Premium Hotdog'. Who could resist?! It had such a funky feel to it. Jazz in the background and patio heaters. We had to try one... So we were in Kyoto, beers in hand, an outdoor heater and possibly the most delicious hotdogs we've ever had - truly premium!

All fuelled up and ready to go, even against the snow, we headed back to the arcades and did some shopping... We can't say anymore cos it's a secret... Shhhushhhh.... ;-)

We got some cool bits...

Temples in the Snow

Following the tea ceremony, we spent the afternoon exploring temples in the snow. We had bus passes and routes planned, and Leanne was on a mission.

Our first stop was the Heian Jingu Shrine. This was a short walk from the tea house and the temple stood out with its bright orange exterior. We took some great photos and walked around the main grounds. We had heard great things about its gardens and seen some amazing pictures, but with the snow coming down heavy we decided not to go in. To be honest, the gardens looked amazing in the spring time, with rows of cherry blossom lighting up the paths, but in the snow we saw empty branches and didn't want to spoil the vision...

We jumped on a bus and headed for the Ginkakuji Temple. Known as the silver pavilion, the temple stood out with its Zen gardens and forest walkway. It used to be a villa owned by a Shogun who retired there, to literally chill out! Designed with that in mind, it was extremely tranquil and relaxing. And while the temple was impressive, it was the gardens that really stood out. The path up into the mountains was like a forest walkway, and as we wondered up, you forgot you were in Kyoto. It felt like we were deep in the mountains, but still within view of the Temple and rock gardens below - simply amazing.

The snow didn't let up, but still we headed for the Honen-in Temple. It wad quite secluded in the mountains, just off the philosophers walk. The thing we loved about this temple was that we were literally on our own for our whole visit. We don't know if it was because of the location, or the snow, but we had the temple and all of the grounds to ourselves. It felt so mysterious. With the snow coming down heavy, we explored the grounds in complete isolation. With time to walk around and wonder, we could have been there in ancient times - not a soul in sight!

Then the skies opened up, and the snow just kept falling. We made a run for the bus stop.

We took a bus to the final temple of the morning, Eikan-do. This temple was so different, so ornate. With gold plated statues and vibrantly painted wood work, it really stood out. It also had awesome walkways which twisted into the mountain and led up to a tall Pagoda. We spent a good hour exploring the grounds and as we did, the snow started to ease off.

It was about 2:30 when we took our final bus on the day back to the centre of Kyoto in search of some well earned lunch...

Traditional Japanese Tea Ceremony

Leanne was very excited this morning. Possibly the apex of our trip so far. The owners of Mume had booked us in for a Japanese Tea Ceremony on the top floor of the Hosomi Museum, where they have a traditional roof terrace tea house. Just the 2 of us, and a traditional tea host.

The ceremony was booked for 11, and we arrived early as we couldn't face being late for such a traditional event. Not like us hey! When we arrived we were shown around the museum, and then just before 11 called up to the tea house.

We had to take our shoes off to enter, and walked along the terrace to the tea house. We were greeted by the host of the tea ceremony, dressed in a kimono, and who, much to our delight, spoke very good english. The staff at Hotel Mume never let us down!

We walked into the tea house and sat down on the floor. We were given a Japanese sweet to start with which was in tune with the season, and designed to cleanse our palette. Then the host explained the items in the room, and what they were used for. It was very minimalistic, and she explained that it took a lot of influence from Zen minimalism.

There was a large tea pot, placed on hot coals at the centre of the room. You could see small amounts of steam escaping at the side, but again very slow and controlled.

The host herself was extremely quaint and elegant, with the most amazing posture. Everything she did, every way she moved, was effortless. The way she was able to stand on her feet from kneeling on the ground, whilst holding several bowls, was amazing.

To start the ceremony, the host walked out to a room at the side of the main floor, and brought back several bowls, spoons, cloths, a bamboo whisk, and of course, the green tea powder.

She first explained how to make the tea, the measurements and the whole process. After that, she began to wash all of the bowls and spoons, which she said was to cleanse the items. While doing so, she did some amazing things with the cloths, that we can only liken to oragami... folding the cloths with one hand and catching it mid air with the other. So amazing, in a really elegant way!

And then, it was over to us! I would make Leanne a bowl of tea, and then Leanne for me. Even though it was only the 3 of us in the house, the nerves were going as it all felt so formal and traditional.

So, I was up first and over to sit in front of the stove. The host added the green tea and boiling water, and them handed me the bamboo whisk. She told me to whisk back and forth, and literally started laughing when I started. I didn't really have nack, but then it was Leanne who had to drink my gift to her! So, it was on to my feet with the bowl in my right hand. Then over to Leanne, and 2 turns of the bowl with my left hand - to make sure the most beautiful side was facing Leanne. I then presented it to Leanne, who then had to turn it 2 times back to face me.

Leanne then had to say in Japanese "excuse me for going first" and then a bow and a thank you to me! She seemed happy with my tea making skills.

Then it was over to Leanne to return the favour. She was clearly much better with the whisk, and prepared me an amazing cup of tea. A lot smoother than my attempt and it was very refreshing. The tea had a subtle bitterness to it, and It felt like it was very good for me!

The host then completed the ceremony by cleansing everything that was used, and washing the bowls with the boiling water.

The ceremony itself must have lasted about 30 minutes, and was so simple and peaceful. Easily Leanne's favourite part of the trip so far...

Travel Plans

There has been a lot of news about concerns in Tokyo now and the growing issues with the power plants, so wanted to make everyone aware of our travel plans over the next couple of days.

Today we are in Kyoto, which is far south from Tokyo. We will be travelling to Tokyo tomorrow morning and will get to Tokyo Station for 15:00. We then have the rest of the day and night in Tokyo, where we will be staying at the Hotel Ryumeikan close to the station.

The foreign office has said that there are no immediate health concerns related to the radiation in Tokyo.

Our flight back to Heathrow is at 12:00, so we will be leaving for the airport around 8:00. We should be back in the UK for 15:00 Saturday afternoon.

Looking forward to seeing you all, and will keep you posted if things change.

Jonetsu Horumon

There was a restaurant we passed last night that was absolutely buzzing and we through we'd have to give it a try tonight. We got there about 8:00 and it was heaving, so we decided to give it a miss. But after walking around for half an hour in the snow and nothing taking our fancy, we headed back and got a table.

So the restaurant was called Jonestu Horumon, any clues yet... no nether for us!

We sat down inside and got a couple of beers. The waitress brought a small BBQ to our table and we chose a few dishes via the pictures in the menu. It all looked like Pork and Beef, so we were happy enough. We also grabbed some salad, edimame and some corn on the cob. It was all really nice, and we had a right good time BBQ'ing the meats and chatting away.

Then, towards the end of the meal we notice a translated menu on the table. We took a look and the first thing that stood out was the word Hormone! And then the meats... Tongue, nose, vocal chord, heart, artery, throat!!! Yikes!

We now don't have a clue what we ordered and BBQ'ed. It was really tasty, but we question what part of the cow we enjoyed!!

So, for future reference, we now think that "Horumon" means "Organs" in Japanese, and not your standard sirloin steak...

Nishiki Food Market and Octopuses on Sticks

We headed to the Nishiki Food Market in the centre of Kyoto for lunch today. We wanted some hot Market food to warm us up from the snow.

The narrow lanes were a buzz of fresh fish stalls, strange and wonderful fruits and vegetables, and hot, street food stands. We started off with some breaded pork and onion, and then sweet potato parcels. We then found a stall with groups of locals gathering, that was selling hot dumplings. They looked great, so we wondered up. The lady serving didn't speak a word of english, so we just pointed at what the last customer had and said "ichi" (which means one). A couple of nods later and we were in business. They were awesome!

We then continued walking around, trying samples of food that the stall owners were giving out. We drew the line however at the Octopuses on sticks. Just like a Candy Apple, but with a full octopus.

The heads stuffed with a Quails egg, but still! I was going to give it a try, what the heck, but Leanne said she wouldn't kiss me if I did...

The Golden Pavilion

We got ourselves a bus pass today as we had plenty of sights to see in the north of Kyoto, and our legs have started to ache from our daily treks!! We didn't know how to ask for a bus pass, so one of the staff from the hotel wrote down a request on a bit of paper which we were able to show the bus driver as we got on. Will be keeping that! The funny thing is that is seemed to take about 50 characters to say "Can I have a bus pass"!

We got on the number 59 bus, and our first stop was the Golden Pavilion at the Kinkakuji Temple. As we got off the bus, it started to snow pretty heavily. And we didn't bring a brolly! We coated up, and headed into the Temple grounds. We arrived at a large pond and at the back of it was a tall Golden Pavilion. It looked amazing, but it was so cold that it was difficult to take it all in. We then continued to walk around the gardens and within minutes the clouds had cleared and we had blue skies and gorgeous sunshine. We decided to try and get back into the grounds from the entrance and see the Pavilion in the sunshine. We had tickets, and the front office seemed to assume we were part of a group and just marched us on...

It was well worth it. The Golden Pavilion looked so much more grand in the sun. Not only did the sunshine make the gold glisten, but the reflection on the pond surface was a picture in itself.

With the sun still out we decided to walk to Ryoanji Temple which was about 1km away. Now very grateful for some sunshine, it was an easy walk. We munched on some wasabi peanuts that we bought in the temple grounds. They were awesome and blew out heads off. Well warmed up now!

Ryoanji Temple is home to a world famous Zen rock garden. Sounds like a sight, but we were a bit underwhelmed. Literally 15 rocks in a set of small stones... a bit too minimalistic for our liking, but it certainly pulled a crowd.

We had a cup of the strangest tea there, it was seaweed tea. Leanne loved it, but I wasn't such a fan. Tasted a bit like sea water to me. However, we brought a bag, so can share it when we get home...

We finally headed down to the Ninnaji Temple. This was by far the best of the day. Really quaint and elegant, and lots of artwork and treasures on display. There were also amazing gardens, with small ponds and bridges backing on to a backdrop of the Kyoto mountains. We had to take our shoes off at Ninnaji, and as we walked around we tried to avoid all of the areas in the shade. It was still cold from this mornings snow, and it was only the sun rays that kept our feet warm!

And then just like the climate switch this morning, it started to snow again. It was really coming down heavy as we made our way up to the Pagoda. We took a few chance snaps, and then headed for the bus stop, absolutely freezing!

We are now back on the 59 heading to the Nishiki Food Market for lunch. We've heard good things and worked up quite an appetite this morning!!

Another quake and we felt it in Kyoto

As we went to bed last night, I was just taking a quick look at BBC News when I saw a tweet saying that there had been another earthquake centred south-west of Tokyo. It apparently shook buildings in Tokyo but there was no major damage.

Leanne was asleep beside me, and after 5 minutes I turned off my light and put my head down. Then less that 5 minutes after, the aftershock of the quake could be felt in Kyoto and the tremors shook our hotel for 10-15 seconds.

I was so tired that I fell asleep, but have seen it reported on the news this morning. It was apparently of magnitude 6.2, and was very close to Tokyo. It has however been really overshadowed by the nuclear issues this morning, where there is a lot of uncertainty.

Will keep you posted.

Shrove Tuesday and Teppanyaki

Out for dinner tonight and Leanne was adamant we had to have pancakes as it is Shrove Tuesday. However, at the start of the evening we were thinking this would be as a desert!

Wondering around the lanes of Ponto-cho we found a cool Teppanyaki restaurant called Ya-Ki-So-Ba. It looked like great fun from the outside, with every table having it's own teppanyaki hot plate, and floor level tables so you had to sit cross legged. We wondered in and we had to take off our shoes before being seen to our table. As we sat down, all of the chefs shouted out something in Japanese, which we can only assume meant "welcome".

It was great little restaurant, with really friendly staff and an awesome buzz to the place!

The special was Okonomiyaka with Japanese beef, which is a Japanese style pancake. Leanne's wish was granted, and we were having pancakes for dinner! We also ordered some special fry noddles with shrimp, squid and prawns - and also some edimame beans and a couple of Kirin beers.

When the food came out, the waitress put it straight on to our hotplate. We had the noddles going, the beef Okonomiyaka pancake, and had a couple of mini spatulars that we could use to flip and cut up the food. It was all so tasty, and the Okonomiyaka was more like egg fried rice than a traditional pancake. We also both agreed that we loved having a meal out where we shared a dish between us, cooked a bit, shared a bit, and talked some more. It's such a social way to have dinner and makes the whole night so much fun.

Another great night in Kyoto. We love this place!

Leanne's taller than 90% of Japan

It's official, Leanne is taller than 90% of Japan... or so she claims.

She was flattered at breakfast this morning when one of the hotel ladies told her that she would be fine in the crowded Market as she was tall! Leanne, tall? Come on.

Anyway, we debated the fact as we walked between the palaces this afternoon and she forced me to carry out a survey. We would compare her to the next 10 Japanese people we passed in the street, and then round up the numbers to represent the entire nation! Not very scientific, but close enough.

Anyway, results are in, and it hurts me to say it but she's right. Leanne was taller than 9 out of the 10 people we passed!

Nijojo Castle

We took a walk over to Nijojo Castle following the Palace tour. We arrived at 3:30 and the Palace in the Castle closed at 4, so we were told to head straight there.

It was shoes off, and into the Palace we went. We could immediately see what our tour guide meant about the wealth. Rooms and rooms of delicate paintings and elegant walkways. We even saw the room where the Shogun would entertain the Samurai. Unfortunately, cameras were not allowed, but you could really feel the power and might amongst these warriors.

Another really interesting thing about the castle palace is that all of the floor was made of cedar wood, and carefully laid in such a way that it creaks with every step you take. The whole Palace flooring was laid like this. This was done to allow the Shogun to know when intruders were approaching. We tried our best to walk around without making any noise, but it was near impossible. An ancient burglar alarm!

After the palace, we them spent the rest of the afternoon walking around the castle gardens. Just like the imperial palace gardens, but much more grand. We crossed a moat via a large wooden bridge and hundreds of Koi must have seen us, and thought it was feeding time. They all came over and put their heads above the water. There were so many of them, all fighting and bobbing for some air time!

As we were leaving, the castle was starting to lock up and you could see the staff cleaning the grounds ready for tomorrow. One thing that really stands out in Japan is the attention to detail. Every castle, palace and shrine you visit is immaculate. Here there were staff picking up the pine needles from the pathways and even a man straightening the stones on the path. And these people don't seem like minimum wage workers, they seem genuinely proud to be associated with these historical sites.

We decided to get the bus back from the Castle, after another day of walking. There was a bus that literally went from the Castle gate to the street that our hotel is on. Perfect! And this time, we knew how to pay for the fare...

Imperial Palace of Kyoto

At 2pm today we were let into the Imperial Palace of Kyoto for a guided tour. There must have been a group of about 40 of us, and we were taken around by an English speaking tour guide and security. This was the first time we had seen armed guards in Japan, but then this is the Imperial Palace.

The Palace itself was huge and very impressive. Mixtures of bright orange paint, dark ceramic tiles, thatch roofs and hardwood made up the impressive structures.

The Palace itself has burnt down or been demolished by wars many times in the past, and rebuilt a number of times over the centuries. The palace was last rebuilt in the 1869, and still stands today, even know the official Imperial Palace has now been moved to Tokyo.

Tokyo is the capital city of Japan today, but it used to be Kyoto.

The Palace was surrounded by some amazing gardens with boating ponds where the Emperior would spend spring evenings, romancing his wife. Chilling out with Sake, in style...

The whole Palace was very solid and mighty, but not extravagant. This is because the Emperior in Japan always had the authority of the country, but not wealth. It was the Shogun family who had the wealth, and they own the castle we will be going to see later today, Nijojo Castle. Apparanty, that's where the money is!!!

That said, this Palace looked pretty plush to us!

Picnic in the Imperial Park

One of the coolest things about Japanese law is that it is perfectly fine to drink outside, and very common in the springtime during the cherry blossom season.

So keeping with the spirit of things, we still had a good hour and a half until the palace tour, so went to a local shop and got some takeaway sushi, some BBQ pork, Japanese salad and a couple of cans of mini Asahis. It was awesome.

The sun is out, there are cherry trees all around us, I'm blogging and Leanne's having a nap on the grass! It was a late night last night, and the hotel happy hour is a bad influence...

Off to the palace tour in 40 mins. I might join her...

Cherry Blossoms are coming

Today has been the first day that we have really seen whole rows of cherry trees in blossom. And not just the buds showing, but complete blooms of flowers.

We are in the Imperial park, and there are rows and ows of treees. The pink blossoms almost look illuminance, like neon lights, glowing in the daylight.

There was a group of amateur artists sat in the middle of the pathway, sketching a row of trees that had just blossomed. It really does excite the local people, and it feels like spring is on it's way...

Not Soft Drinks!!

We were told a funny story at breakfast this morning by a couple staying in our hotel. They had some friends here in Japan who were travelling with their kids, and had a bit of a shock when they were told by a local that there 10 year olds were drinking alcohol.

There are vending machines on every corner of the streets in Japan and they stock everything from water to coffee, green tea to cigarettes. There's even an Asahi machine with all different types of beer. The only issue is that apart from Coke and Water, it's difficult to tell what anything else is. The bottles and cans are all in Japanese.

So this couple had been giving their kids "Orange Juice" for the last couple of days. Which turned out to be an alcoholic orange drink and 8% proof! We felt the effects of Super Dry in Tokyo, which was the lemon equivalent. Those kids must have been well and truly buzzing!

Early start for the Market

We were up early again this morning for a trip to the Market at Chionji Temple. We had been recommended it by the lady in the hotel, who said it was full of handy crafts and interesting foods.

We were treated to another big breakfast, with the same fresh fruit,  pastries, milk bread and apple and cinnamon jam. We also had potato and burdock soup this morning, which was interesting to be eating at 8am...

So we got out straight after breakfast and headed for the bus stop. The buses here are very frequent and we jumped on the 206. You pay when you get off the bus in Kyoto, and it was 220 Yen per person. We didn't have the correct change, but luckily the pay station by the driver accepts 1000 Yen notes. So, we arrive at our stop and everyone gets up to get off the bus. I'm at the front of the queue and slip the 1000 Yen note into the machine. I then take what I thought was the change and get off. In doing so, the whole bus (including the driver) burst into laughter and wave me back onto the bus. Turns out it was just a change machine, and I hadn't paid. Literally just changed up my note and walked off. Needless to say, we paid the fare and walked off red faced and embarrassed!

We arrived at the Market at about 9:30, and it was already busy. It was in the ground of a large temple and all of the stalls were scattered around the gardens. It was a lot of fun, and there was a great selection of hand crafts, ornaments, pottery and foods. Natalie, Nasreen and the Nans would have loved it here! Like Spitalfield Market but with an oriental twist.

We brought a couple of cool bits and bobs, and some Soya Milk cake, which we are now enjoying with a cup of coffee in the Imperial Palace gardens. It's so light and fluffy, feels like you're eating air!

We have also just got our tickets for a tour of the Imperial Palace. Quite serious stuff, and they wanted to see passports and take our full details and addresses before we could book ourselves in. We guess it's the equivalent of Windsor Castle back home, so they need to be thorough!

The tour's at 2pm, and our early start got us here by 11, so we're left with 3 hours to soak up some rays in the gardens...

Rap Restaurant in Kyoto

We found a funky Yakitori restaurant in a side street of Pontocho tonight, which was run by a couple of guys who loved their rap! It was awesome, they played lots of Japanese rap and reggae, but also lots of American material too! We had heard a lot about the Pontocho area but we weren't sure if it would be too pretentious. It was not!! The restaurant we went to had a great vibe. It was so relaxed and so much fun!

The walls were covered with posters and flyers, and there really seems to be a big hip hop scene in Kyoto. There was even a magazine just for the city!

We had a great night and the owners were so chilled out and accommodating! We had some great Yakitori and lots of beer and wine.

Also, to top the night off, we found some street kids rapping by the subway as we left Pontcho-cho. They has an iPod and a massive set of speakers, and were spitting some crazy rap. 8 bars each and then passing the mic between them. Awesome end to a very funky night!

"It was all a dream, I used to read word-up magazine..."

Shamone in Japanese

We saw this sign today on our way back to the hotel and it made us think of Nicky P!

Shamone in Japanese! Shomone mo fo!

Never know when it may come in handy...

We saw Geisha

Leanne was so excited this afternoon when we spotted some Geisha in the Higashiyama area of Kyoto. One of them was walking down the street close to the Kodai-ji Shrine, and the other we saw late afternoon walking between two tea houses.

They really were quite beautiful, with completely powdered White faces and immaculate makeup. They pull quite a crowd when they wondered between the small lanes.

Having read Memoirs of a Geisha, Leanne has been excited to spot them since we arrived. And she wasn't satisfied with a tourist Geisha posing for photos in the street - they had to be real and wondering between tea houses!

Lunch by the Pagoda

We had an awesome lunch this afternoon and it was our cheapest by far of the holiday!

We got takeaway sushi from a local supermarket and found a small side street by the 5 storey Pagoda in Kyoto. We just sat on a wall at the side of the road and enjoyed the view. Cost less that 3 or 4 pounds and it was amazing.

We also had some great street food wondering around today. The bamboo shoots were a highlight!

Temples of Kyoto

We set out just after 9 this morning for Leanne's Temple Tour of Kyoto! Backed up with a map from the hotel and a list of must-sees, we were on our way. It's now 13:30 and we must have seen over 10 temples, countless shrines and covered several miles. Never mind the fact that every temple has about 50 steep steps leading up to it!

Our legs are aching but it has been well worth it. The whole area is breathtakingly beautiful and with every corner you turn you feel like you need to take a photo.

The Kodaiji Temple was by far our favourite. Not as extravagant as some of the others, but the traditional structures, bridges and gardens gave this place a really magical feel.

It's so peaceful in Kyoto, and we are both feeling so chilled out. The sun is out today and it's quite warm. Even walking around in a short sleeved shirt is quite hot and we didn't think to bring sunglasses or suntan cream! Less than a week ago and we were throwing snow balls at each other in the mountains.

We also visited Ryozen Kanon this morning, where there is the largest stone statue of Buddha, and we met a monk who lived there. He spoke very good English and asked us where we were from. He also asked us if we were married and then when we told him it was our honeymoon, he said something to us in Japanese, which he said translated to "I wish you a lifetime of Happiness". He then started to sing "She loves you, yeah yeah yeah..." by the Beatles. He was a really cool monk and was blown away when I showed him my iPad! We took him through some of our photos of Tokyo which I had backed up at the weekend, and he was quite excited as I flicked through using the touch screen.

We'll come back here in a couple of years time and all the monks will have iPods and Facebook accounts...

Most important meal of the day

We've just had our first breakfast at Hotel Mume and it's maintained the standard! Paul would have been proud, and it included

- Fresh Fruit (strawberries, banana, lychee and loads of berries)
- Boiled Egg with sea salt
- Spinach Soup (bit strange in the morning but ok once you get the first mouthful down)
- Croissants
- Green Tea Rolls
- Tomato Bread
- Homemade Jams that would impress Natalie (Ginger, Banana and Apricot)

And for drinks we had fresh grapefruit juice and Nespressos! Oh yes, good old Indryia to kick start the day!

All fuels up for the trek Leanne has planned today...

10 Courses and some

The hotel owners took the lead on our dinner tonight and booked us into a restaurant close to the Pagoda in Gion. We told her that we wanted to experience something very traditional and she recommended a restaurant called Karyo.

She checked that we were ok with raw fish, and had a big appetite, and booked us the 10 course taster menu for 8pm. She said that we would love the place and it was one of her favourites, and she wasn't wrong! She also booked us a table facing the chefs, so we could see everything going on in the kitchen.

The restaurant was in a very traditional part of town, and I doubt we would have dared entered without a booking. It almost looked like somebody's house. But as soon as we walked in, they knew who we were and greeted us very warmly. We had to take our shoes off at the door and were then shown to our seats. This place had a great buzz and 5 chefs were hard at work in the kitchen, in full view from our seats.

We started off with a free drink, courtesy of our hotel which was a really nice touch. And then the food came. 1, 2, 3 all the way to 10 courses. And each of the courses had up to 3 bits to them, and were all different. It was amazing and by far the best meal we have had in Japan so far.

We had raw octopus, whole baby squids (heads and all), sea bream, mackerel, crab dumplings, raw beef, scallops, salmon roe eggs and so many other things that we don't even know the names off! And the puddings, well... Sesame Seed ice cream, cherry blossom cake and a strawberry creme mousse. A true experience.

And in terms of attention to detail, each of the dishes had a live cherry blossom branch as decoration - but with each course, the buds were opened more each time. Something so unique.

We also had some amazing Sake with the meal, but didn't feel the need to drink too much as the taste buds were flowing...

Our first night in Kyoto, and one to remember forever.

The Lantern Walk

This evening we set out around 6pm to do the Lantern Walk around the temples and shrines of Gion. The sun was setting and the lanterns had just been turned on, and lined each side of the street. They guided you through temples, shrines and beautiful gardens. There was a real mystical feel to the whole place and you could feel traditional Japan all around you.

It was by far the most romantic place we have ever been, and Andy said that he wished he could have proposed here. It would have taken a lot to top Rome, but I could feel what he meant. This place was so charged with love and romance, and felt really mystical, like being in an old Japanese Geisha movie.

With every turn of the road there was something else to look at, a lantern lit pathway crossed with a little boutique selling lanterns and Japanese paper. There were a lot of people milling around but that only added to the buzz of the place. When we walked through the park, we passed a flower exhibition and a stream filled with bamboo with tea lights inside to light up the whole river - it was extraordinarily beautiful.

At one stage we were just walking along when we saw a couple peering through a bamboo gate and being the curious beings that we are, we stopped to see what they were looking at. On the other side was what can only be described as a secret garden with a stream filled with golden koi carp. Surely this had to be make believe?! It was fairytale-like.

Andy was really proud of the photo he took on his iPhone. To be fair, it looks like something off a poster and it's much better than the photo I took with the SLR!! I promise it's real though!

Happy Hour

This hotel was already amazing, but it has just gone up a notch. We have just been told that they have a happy hour (well 2 hours) from 5 to 7 every evening, where the drinks are complementary. And the bar area is gorgeous too. Its backs onto the river with the cherry blossom trees.

Leanne just had 2 glasses of champagne and I had a couple of gin and tonics. Were feeling spoilt now and could have stayed there for the full 2 hours. However, we wanted to get out whist it as still light and do the lantern walk around the temples and shrines whilst the sun is setting. This has been recommended to us by the hotel owners as something very romantic.

They were so excited when they found out it was our homeymoon.

Hotel Mume

We have just arrived at Hotel Mume in Kyoto, and we are literally blown away by the place. It was described as 'possibly the best boutique hotel in the world' by the Lonely Planet guide, which is why we booked it, but we were still overwhelmed when we arrived.

It feels like a true honeymoon destination, so different from the buzzing streets of Tokyo.

Its the attention to detail that makes this place so special. No big entrance, just a bright red door down a little side street. There wasn't even a doorbell. We just stood there and someone came to greet us. And they knew exactly who we were!

They took us through to a traditional dining area, which looked out to a small river lined with cherry blossom trees. They prepared us Japanese green tea, whist they took us through a map of the local area, and recommended where to visit over the next couple of days.

The hotel owners are so welcoming here, and genuine too. They were so excited that Leanne had researched the area, and praised the itinerary she had pulled together.

And we are now in our room. The Butterfly Room. It's so traditional and the attention to detail really stands out here.

Leanne is all smiles and very excited...

Bento Box

We just had our first Bento Box whilst on the bullet train. We've been hearing them mentioned since we arrived and wondered what they were about.

You get a long wooden box with 4 compartments in it. Each compartment contained about 4 or 5 different pieces of food, including rice, fish, pickles and sweets. There must have been about 15 different things in the box, and to be honest we could only identify 5 of them. And one of those was the rice! The rest were completely unknown to us. I mean, we didn't have a clue what we were eating. We also didn't know what was for mains and what was dessert, so we just tried them all randomly.

It was all really nice, it's just really strange putting something in your mouth and you haven't a clue what it is... and we were daring each other to try particular ones first!

Needless to say, the complementary beers helped us try each and every one. All that we left was what can only be describes as a prune dumpling.... tasted very strange!

Total Excitement for Kyoto

We are sitting here on the bullet train, racing through the mountains south of Fuji, in what can only be described as business class on an aeroplane. There's enough leg room to completely stretch out, our seats recline right back, a young lady walks the aisles serving drinks and bento boxes, and it just feels rather plush.

There's even a carriage with telephones and vending machines!

Leanne is sat to my left, with a number of books, guides and maps out, excitedly planning the next 6 days in Kyoto. Every time I try to nod off, or play a game on the iPad, she's found a new place that we have to visit and can't wait to tell me about it! This is going to be a cool part of the trip, and very different to the buzzing pace of Tokyo.

Our hotel could not be in a better location and we are literally at the heart of the city.

Both very excited for Kyoto...

Finally seen Mt Fuji

We took a day trip to the mountain, we went to the highest observatory point in Tokyo Tower, but still we didn't get to see Mt Fuji. Both times the weather has prevented us from seeing it, either severe  snow or thick fog.

But today we got to see it, up close and personal, from the comfort of our bullet train seats. It's a perfect day outside with clear blue skies, and the bullet train from Tokyo to Kyoto literally seemed to do a lap of the mountain. We approached it on one side and went right around to the other, with some spectacular views. We were less than 3 or 4 miles away.

It must have been snowing very heavily over the last few days as the usual white peak seemed to take up half of the mountain. It looked amazingly cold, and you can understand why our tour bus wasn't allow up...